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Showing posts from July, 2019

Rask Tanke 4: Kvikk Lunsj and Fjellvettreglene

Norway's most beloved chocolate bar is the Kit-Kat-like Kvikk Lunsj (literally translates to "quick lunch"). This delicious confection was first released in 1937, and has been marketed as a packing essential for all hiking and skiing trips since the 1960s. my best attempt at a Kvikk Lunsj ad (also featured: Preikestolen or Pulpit Rock) historic Kvikk Lunsj ad (photo courtesy  https://www.freia.no/ ) Historically, different hiking and skiing trails were printed on the inside of the wrappers. If you buy a Kvikk Lunsj today, printed on the wrapper you will find a copy of Fjellvettreglene ("the mountain code"). Fjellvettreglene consists of a series of long-established rules for safety on mountain hikes. Translation: 1.  Plan your trip and inform others about the route you have selected. 2.  Adapt the planned routes according to ability and conditions. 3.  Pay attention to the weather and the avalanche warnings. 4.  Be prepared for bad weathe...

From Hytte to Hytte: Fuglemyrhytta

After hiking around Jotunheimen National Park for a week, Federico and I returned to Oslo. We spent our first night back in the city in a hytte called Fuglemyrhytta . If you take the tram to the Frognerseteren Station in the northwest part of the city, Fuglemyrhytta is a roughly 20 minute walk from the station into Oslomarka (the name of the forest surrounding Oslo). Fuglemyrhytta was designed by the architecture firm Snøhetta and opened to the public in September 2018. It is an unmanned, self-service cabin that can be opened with the standard DNT key. Fuglemyrhytta is part of a new wave of hytter that feature contemporary architecture with big windows and nontraditional geometries. Fuglemyrhytta sits on a hill in the forest outside Oslo Upon entering Fuglemyrhytta, one thing I noticed right away was how grand the main communal space is. The ceiling is 18-20 feet high at its apex. The room features a south-facing floor-to-ceiling window that frames a spectacular view out over t...

Rask Tanke 3: Backpacking Solo

my favorite photo from the hike - it reminds me of a Renaissance landscape painting I just completed my first ever solo backpacking trip! I did 5 days in the Frafjordheiane mountain region in Southwestern Norway. The trip was originally supposed to be 6 days, but it got cut short by bad weather. The hikes I did were not popular routes, and I didn't see anyone while hiking until the last day. Some of my observations... Backpacking solo is hard : Your pack is heavy. You don't get to take advantage of shared resources like a tent, cooking gear, etc.  It's nerve-wrecking. In the back of your mind you know that an injury like a sprained ankle could mean real trouble. It's important to think scenarios through to know what your options are (wait for help if on a popular trail, call an emergency phone number if you have service, set up camp and wait it out if it's an overuse injury; also how far away is the nearest town/cabin/place with people - can you make it?) ...

From Hytte to Hytte: Utladalen Valley

After trekking around in the high country for a few days, Federico and I traveled to a different region of Jotunheimen National Park, the Ultadalen Valley. While the landscape around Lake Gjende was mostly above the treeline, gray and rocky with a dusting of snow, the Ultadalen Valley and surrounding mountains were at a much lower elevation. The valley was lush, green, warm, and punctuated by the occasional impressive waterfall. Hjellefoss (foss = waterfall) plus me for scale! also crossed this rather exposed suspension bridge Stølsmaradalen After a particularly strenuous and soggy hike with some hand-over-hand vertical climbs we came to a high plateau and the hytte Stølsmaradalen came into view.  Støslmaradalen is beautifully situated in a meadow surrounded by mountains Upon entering the hytte, it was immediately clear that it was a really old structure - large areas of the wood interior had blackened with age (I'm not exactly sure why this occurs, but i...

Rask Tanke 2: Allemannsretten

illustration from the DNT Yearbook (1938) In Norway, the "right to roam" is a traditional right that has existed since ancient times. In 1957 it was formalized into law as part of the Outdoor Recreation Act. The law is known as allemannsretten  and it states: " Any person is entitled to access to and passage through uncultivated land at all times of year, provided that consideration and due care is shown."  So what does that mean? You may walk pretty much anywhere you like except private agricultural land. You can pitch a tent for the night anywhere in the countryside, mountains, or forest as long as you are at least 150 meters away from the nearest inhabited dwelling. This includes private land. "Cultivated land" - where allemannsretten does not apply - includes plowed fields with or without crops, pastures, gardens, and industrial areas. However, the law even grants free roaming access in many of those areas between October 15th and Ap...

From Hytte to Hytte: Jotunheimen National Park

Just completed my first excursion out into the wilderness! I spent the last week trekking from hytte to hytte in Jotunheimen National Park and the Utladalen Valley in south-central Norway. I was lucky to be joined by a dear friend, Mr. Federico Ruiz-Reyes, whose company was much appreciated. This post will cover the time we spent in Jotunheimen, specifically focusing on the hytter we stayed in. Besseggen Ridge and Lake Gjende The first leg of our hike happened to be one of Norway's most famous trails - the Besseggen Ridge. The trail climbs roughly 3500 feet into the mountains that line the glacier-carved Lake Gjende. At one point, we scrambled down a steep ridge between two mountain lakes, the turquoise waters of Lake Gjende and the dark blue waters of Bessvatnet - truly awe-inspiring natural beauty.  The Besseggen Ridge, just prior to the rock scrambling descent If you would like to know more details about the Besseggen Ridge hike, you can learn more here:  https:/...